Be careful once you submit your parts for plating it may take longer than they tell you and you may have to pay more to get them back? Research the company its free go to https://www.gov.uk/get-information-about-a-company Some companies are trading insolently and rely on a glossy website with fake reviews to pull in customers. What we quote is what you pay and we never ask for money upfront.
You need to consider all the pros and cons. Generally, original parts are made from better quality material; they fit the vehicle and re-chroming superbly. Most re-pro parts are cheaper but are poor quality and average 15% smaller. Recycling your old parts is a green option and the vehicle remains 100% original.
It does have a seasonal variation Feb’ to April is our busiest time leading up to Easter. On average outside this period, it normally takes 4 to 5 weeks, but if you want it quicker we will always do our best to accommodate you. Unlike some companies, we do not charge for express service!
Yes, provided that they drain! We need to clean them out before we can process them, any oil or carbon can be very harmful to the plating process. A simple trick is to fill them with water and if they drain out quickly and efficiently, without trapping water between the baffles. There is a good chance we can plate them.
Yes, we are probably one of the only companies in Europe that can! We repair broken and damaged castings and can even fill some pits. However, we can’t guarantee perfection! Each casting is unique and as such each case is individual.
Yes, all the existing plating is removed by the reverse plating process. Each layer is chemically removed. This is a non-aggressive process and does not damage the base metal. This leaves the base metal in its “Maximum Metal Condition”
Yes. Aluminium is a difficult material to Chrome. If it has been previously Chromed and pealing it can be even more difficult. It may be worth considering having it in polished aluminium? It can look just like Chrome but without the hassle!
No, all parts entrusted with us are listed and photographed. They are checked through each stage of restoration to prevent the risk of losing or mixing any of the parts. Most small parts will be presented back to you with a photographic list upon completion.
No, we like to receive the parts in their original condition. All of our processes are none aggressive and our aim to preserve the metal prior to restoration. This gives us the best chance to restore your parts to the heist possible standard.
Our carrier does offer a third party collection, but there is a surcharge. The easiest and cheapest option is the post office. For larger parts such as bumpers can be sent by parcel Force through the post office. Supermarket boxes can be stripped up and wrapped around bumpers so there are no sharp edges.
When you receive your restored parts back from us it’s important that you look after them. You will receive a care leaflet explaining do’s and don’t on reassembly and how to look after your brightwork. We will also recommend aftercare products suitable for your brightwork.
No, the reason is they need to be plated on special jigs. These jigs allow the chrome to plate evenly, so you have an even deposit from the outside edge of the rim through to the centre. Without this, you would have a high build-up on the outside edge and on thickness in the centre. This creates a problem because the edge will be susceptible to cracking if touched by a Tyre lever or curb and the centres will corrode very quickly.
No, when they were chromed originally they were chromed as individual components i.e. spokes, hubs and rims, then assembled on a production line. To re-chrome they would have to be completely dismantled, but then the rims could not be chromed, because they need to be chromed on special jigs. This allows the chrome to plate evenly through the whole width of the rim.
Yes, Dunlop, Jones and Takasago steel rims, but not alloys! This is not a cheap option as they are time-consuming. But these old rims are made of good quality material and normally restore very well. They are made in one continuous section and have only one join. Most re-pro rims are made in three pieces and have three welded joins. The problem is they very seldom run true and have been known to fail. Most re-pro rims are made and chromed with the smallest spoke hole and then drilled out if bigger spokes are required. The problem is they go rusty around the spoke holes very quickly.
Yes, with the traditional chrome panel type of tank, we firstly make a temple of where the paint line is. Then we chemically remove the old paint and chemically remove all the existing layers of old plating. Paint templates are then put back on the tank and the painted area is then marked out. The tank is then sateen finished over the painted area and mirror polished on the chrome panels. The whole tank is then chrome plated, to real a sateen chrome on the painted area and polished chrome on the panels. This process is the original method and enables a key for the re-painting.
Only Rickman, Hesketh and grass frames, or any other frames that have been plated before or have been designed to be plated. The principle difference is these frames have drain holes in the frame and most importantly have brazed joints and not Mig welded joints. Mig welding is porous and cannot be sealed by plating. Therefore they will go rusty very quickly.
Yes, we have pioneered a technique over the years where we go in through the filler cap and push out the dent. In other cases, we will cut a 50mm hole in through the base of the tank, push out the dent and then tig weld an oversize cap.
Yes, the fork legs are measured before we start to ascertain their original size, we then put them on a machine and grind the surface down to take out the pitting and any runout. The tubes are then measured again and compared to their original size. They are then hard chromed to build up the difference plus and then finally the hard chrome is ground back to reduce the tubes to their original size again. Refurbished forks are far better than new, simply because you will end up with on average 0.4mm of hard chrome on the surface compared with just a flash on new forks!
Yes, grilles need to be dismantled before plating. We normally make a drawing and number each louvre in the grille matrix. Strip, polish and chrome the individual pieces and then re-assemble. The end result is far superior to trying to chrome it in one piece!
No, the truth is copper does not fill the pits! But a successive layer with intermediate polishing spreads the copper over the pit to form an artificial skin. A bit like spreading butter over toast! This can lead to premature failure as crevice corrosion may be accelerated with the presence of dissimilar materials and a porous surface. We have all seen in the past heavy Copper plating peeling back to reveal rust beneath! Our process prepares the surface and removes as much of the pitting as possible. Then Copper priming before Nickel and Chrome plating.